CHAPTER 11: Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras

Known as the “stairway to heaven” and considered as the 8th wonder of the world, the Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras is the most scenic cultural world heritage site I’ve ever seen in Asia.

The weather was cool, it was the month of December. I went to the Ohayami Bus station in Sampaloc, Manila en route to Ifugao on a night bus. There were more foreigners than locals, I noticed. They were struggling to position their legs comfortably because the seats were “Asian size”- there’s not enough leg room but it seemed they care less. From Manila, it will take you probably at least 9 hrs by land, with some sections of some treacherous zigzag roads that offer amazing mountain vistas of the province of Ifugao.

I arrived at the Banaue Tourism Office around 5:30 in the morning for registration- which is the first thing you need to do, and just outside, I met my guide whom I previously contacted because I intended to visit all five UNESCO sites that make the Rice Terraces of Philippine Cordilleras, spread on different municipalities within the province.

The great Ifugao people!

The five sites are the Nagacadan Rice Terraces, Mayoyao Rice Terraces, Hungduan Rice Terraces, Bangaan Rice Terraces and the crown jewel of the Rice Terraces of Philippine Cordilleras, the Batad Rice Terraces. These sites have about 2,000 years of rich history, of living cultural landscape devoted to the production of one of the world’s most important staple crops, rice. Although not uncommon in Asia, the Ifugao rice terraces is one of the most ancient, with the highest altitude (between 700m to 1,500m above sea level) and steepest slopes also, considered to be one of the most extensive having maintained remarkable harmony between mankind and a natural environment of great aesthetic appeal.

It also appears in one of the Philippine peso bills and is one of the most authentic because the rice terraces are the only monuments in the Philippines that show no evidence of having been influenced by colonial cultures. I have read somewhere that Ifugaos have resisted colonialism and because of it’s remote location, Spanish influence is not as prevalent as elsewhere. The Ifugaos were also able to preserve traditional techniques and forms, dating back two millennia, as well as demonstrating sustainable farming systems in mountainous terrain based on careful use of natural resources.

I first visited the Hungduan Rice Terraces which is near Banaue. It is famous for its sprawling spiderweb- like rice terraces design. The way to Hungduan is via road system in poor condition going uphill for about 45 minutes to one hour. It was muddy from the previous day’s rainfall and, since we used a motorcycle, I was muddy as well but I didn’t mind at all, the way going to Hungduan was very scenic to say the least. Then we did hiking of about an hour going around and in the rice terraces. I took a bath on a nearby spring as well. We also visited the local village and just wander around, amazed by the beauty and sheer size of the site. It took me the whole day visiting Hungduan and going back to Banaue.

Hungduan Rice Terraces

Hungduan Rice Terraces

Hungduan Rice Terraces

Hungduan Rice Terraces

I checked in at People’s Lodge, it’s a backpacker’s inn of reasonable price with a nice view of the Banaue Rice Terraces and the typical Ifugao village below. It was the high season so I was not surprised that it was full of other backpackers- even with other lodges and hotels. I went straight to my room to charge my phone and I noticed that there’s no sockets in the room, even at the lobby… So I made inquiries with the receptionist and she said that it’s the same thing even with other lodges. I was surprised but I said “ok” since I got no choice and, as I really need to charge my 2 phones since both were almost empty, I was forced to stay pile on a long queue of travellers waiting for their turn to charge their phones, iPads and cameras on the sockets only available at the reception table! It was such a hassle!

Good thing that even if I waited long, I didn’t feel like I’ve wasted time to see the rice terraces on my first day because it was already at dusk that I manage to get back from Hungduan. I had my dinner and the food was OK. Clearly, the menu is catered for the tourists. I had my shower thereafter and called it a day.

It was the holiday season so the Mesa de Gallo or the early morning mass is being held daily for nine consecutive mornings. The Banaue town proper is only very small, and the christmas song being played loudly at the chapel to waken up the villagers and churchgoers can be heard by the entire world! Jackson 5’s “Santa Claus is Coming to Town”, mind you, young Michael Jackson’s high pitched voice was so distinct and powerful, to say the least- it was like a boom box situated right next to you, reverberating on the halls of the lodge at 5 in the morning! It was not a good start for me to be waken up like that but, it definitely was a blessing in disguise, because all other travellers in the inn were still sleeping soundly (I don’t know how they can manage that from the loud music being played!) and so I am the ONLY one using the sockets to charge my two phones and camera all the same time! I am the only one out in the lobby having my coffee and starting my day while everyone is asleep, save for the inn personnels who were already preparing food for breakfast. It was such a luxury, trust me…

And as predictable as they are, all other travellers woken up, almost simultaneously, at 7am while I am already readying to go to my next rice terraces destination! Haha!

And that has been my routine for the next seven days! Thanks to the loud music- it was such a blessing! 🙂

Next stop is the Bangaan Rice Terraces.  Located nearby the Banaue town proper, it’s the smallest of the 5 UNESCO sites but it’s one of the prettiest! A small Ifugao village with a chapel is located in the middle of the rice terraces that looked like a five star resort from afar amidst the greeneries surrounding the village that seem like a coliseum in its style tilling the mountainous terrain. It was very pretty it was almost therapeutic to just stare at.

Living on the edge, literally!

Bangaan Rice Terraces

Bangaan Rice Terraces

Bangaan Rice Terraces

It was in Batad that I stayed for three days and two nights. The Batad Rice Terraces is considered to be the most beautiful rice terraces in the world. It is located in Banaue, on a different barangay, but it’s not easy to get there. From the town proper, me and my guide drove via his motor to get to Saddle Point, through a very steep and muddy road for about one hour. The Saddle Point is the location where we need to leave the motor and start hiking. It was situated so high that the clouds are beneath us covering the ravine down below.

The Batad Rice Terraces is located 1,500m above sea level. From the Saddle Point we rested a bit and so I had given time to send my partner a text message about my experience so far and that I was so excited to do some hiking to get to Batad and we are so high up the mountains that the clouds were hanging below us. Then I sent him another text message saying “we’re now going down hiking to get to Batad but the visibility is not the clearest because of the cloud”…

The hiking lasted about two hours. It was not an easy climb. It’s comparable with my hiking experience at the Preikestolen. There were parts of the trail that are steep and seemed like an endless zigzag descent following the mountain slopes and we were surrounded by lush rainforest. I was told it’s remote but I did not expect it was THAT REMOTE…! There was no phone signal!!!

And I saw, for the first time, the famed Batad Rice Terraces… It was literally and figuratively breathtaking! The entrance to the site, wherein you can also find the tourist kiosk where you need to register, will give you the best viewpoint of the famous amphitheatre rice terraces with some jagged mountain backdrop. I have never seen anything like it. It was unbelievably beautiful!

We checked in at Batad Pension and I was welcomed by the owner’s son with warmth and offered me a “Baya”- a native Ifugao rice wine, which I took and, I have to admit, it tasted great! Batad seemed to be colder than in Banaue town proper because of it’s altitude with low-lying clouds and beautiful sunset.

We wasted no time and, after lunch, we went hiking inside the maze-like rice terraces to get closer to Ifugao villages and from this point, the rice terraces looked different from the entrance view point. It almost looked circular down below. It was so huge the entire mountain was carved that the Ifugao forefathers made it a single rice field!

When I saw photos of the Batad Rice Terraces before it seemed like I can almost descend and ascend to each and every step- like in a stair but, lo and behold, each “step” is about 12 to 15 feet in height (some are even higher on some uneven parts of the mountain slopes)- it has a total height of approximately 1,500 metres! Imagine the sheer size…If you fall, you’ll be covered in mud you can hardly be distinguished from afar!

We also went and see the 70 feet waterfall nearby, at the back of the rice terraces, the Tappiyah Falls. It took us a total of one hour of another challenging hike in the middle of nowhere to get to the falls and, again, an amazing site with powerful water drop and cool river run with a nearly vertical solid mountain wall as back drop!

I have found out that if you put your phone by the balcony railing of the pension, there is a weak phone signal being found. That’s when I have sent text messages to my partner, family and friends not to worry about me, and that I was having a day to life and apologised for not being able to reach me or give advise prior to since I didn’t know about it, specially my partner as he was much worried if something unfortunate has already happened.

Batad Rice Terraces was unforgettable! I even wore an Ifugao warrior garb on a photo shoot with the Batad Rice Terraces as the background, appreciating the indigenous culture. It’s the best place I’ve seen in the Philippines, hands down!

Batad Rice Terraces

Batad Rice Terraces

Batad Rice Terraces

On my way to Tappiyah Falls

Tappiyah Falls

Ifugao warrior garb!

Mayoyao Rice Terraces is, by far, the farthest from Banaue town proper. It’s only about 50 kilometres in distance but it took us 4.5 hours on the road, one way. The road condition was the worst I’ve seen in Ifugao and the mud was about 5 inches thick! We had to even walk on an ankle- high mud to give way to trucks and bulldozers since the road was under construction at the time I was there.

Moyoyao is nothing short of amazing, too! The road to Mayoyao goes all the way inside the rice terraces- it was so wide that there are few different villages situated within the UNESCO site. It’s not as steep as Batad but it has more traditional Ifugao huts peppered around the rice terraces. And the terraces were wider that looked like scales at a viewpoint.

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to visit the Nagacadan Rice Terraces in Kiangan. It was even farther on a much different direction. My one week of travel was not enough, and so, therefore, I shall return!

Modernization proved to be an enemy of this UNESCO World Heritage Site that, at one time, it was put on the “In Danger List”. Although far from being spoiled by modern infrastructures because of its remote location and steep mountains surrounding the area, I was told that there are far fewer and fewer young Ifugaos tilling the land and maintaining the rice terraces because some of them would rather go and work in the corporate world in the capital after graduating from college. Construction of the terraces demands great care and precision and of its complex drainage system.

When I was there, it was on its full glory, so I hope the best for the future of the Rice Terraces of Philippine Cordilleras. It is a great representation of my people and country for the world to see.

CHAPTER 10: Wieliczka Salt Mine

Poland proved to be special thus far, and visiting Wieliczka Salt Mine made it so unforgettable that the Southeast Poland tourist triangle route is one of the most popular in the world!

I never had any fancy thoughts about mines, I’ve never entered one before, so my judgement was fruitless and had no basis, except that I know it’s an important product of human source of livelihood and toil. I did a little research about this mine that, it’s part of the first batch of UNESCO World heritage Sites inscribed in 1978; that it’s one of the oldest salt mines in the world, built in the 13th century, which recently ceased in operation; of labyrinthine and was extensively explored that it reached 327 metres deep, spread over 9 levels, it has 300 kilometres of galleries, connecting more than 2,000 excavation chambers. Now that’s something! Makes me think of human size termite colony! 

But still, I wasn’t prepared with what I’ve seen inside the mine…

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

From Krakow, reaching Wieliczka Salt Mine takes less than half of the travel time reaching Auschwitz but on a totally different direction, making it shaped like an acute triangle between the three UNESCOs, i.e., Krakow- Auschwitz- Wieliczka Salt Mine.

I hired a taxi because it was raining early in the morning and I reached the site before 8AM while it’s still closed. I waited outside for about 30 minutes, smoking on the side street and setting my camera for lowlight photography because I know I’ll face challenges taking photos without flash inside the mine.

At the museum’s opening hours, I headed for the cashier to pay for my ticket for an English tour and there were many tourist buses already emptied with hoards of tourists from all over the world. I was kind of loss because I see no solo traveler like myself and I made inquiries where will I show myself up on my scheduled tour because it was overwhelmingly overcrowded.

While waiting, I had my breakfast at the cafeteria of sandwich and coffee and, in no time, our tour guide was looking for all the tourists scheduled under her wing.

The mine’s main building exterior looks nothing special. It’s like all other main buildings of mines I’ve seen- the Walloon coal mine of Bois- du- Luc was even more impressive from the outside world, I concluded.

So we had our radios and headphones ready and the tour guide assisted us where we should make the first entry to get inside the mine. I was less than ecstatic that time blaming it from the many noisy children and tourists crowding the museum’s lobby.

Main building, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Then the tour guide opened the first door and she said “we will now descend to get to the first level and walk down 380 steps of spiral wooden stairs…!” Reaching more than 64 metres underground with more than 50 turns on the spiral wooden stairs will make you dizzy and an impression of adventure of going down the unknown, reaching down the navel of the earth! We were so impressed instantly. 

The historic Wieliczka Salt Mine presented us it’s extraordinary secrets and work of genius! Wonderful sculptures made from rock salt and crystals with stories and exposition of how the miner’s work during the medieval times. Mind you, they even used horses inside the mine to help transport salt deposits! There were many underground lakes and chambers that enchant visitors with their unique beauty. 

We went deeper and deeper into the earth reaching about 135 metres underground, about 800 steps of wonder! It’s like the Disneyland of mines! True enough, it feels like an underground metropolis made of salt- a human sized termite colony of sort! It was quite cool inside the mine, about 14 C. The air , however, was therapeutic specially for people suffering from respiratory ailments. 

We also have tried licking the solid rock salt wall of the mine chambers and even drank flowing water from pipes inside the mine! The rock salt is naturally gray in various shades, resembling unpolished granite rather than the white or crystalline look that many visitors may expect. It was such fun and an amazing thing to experience! 🙂

The mine was very beautiful and even picturesque! The most impressive being the Chapel of St. Kinga. It was built from pure rock salt and crystals as Wieliczka salt miners of the olden days have mastered the art of rock salt sculpture. It is such a magnum opus with many salt crystal chandeliers that illuminate the intricately carved floor, with amazing bas relief and altars as proof of their extraordinary artistry. Its splendours make it the dreamland location for a Holy Mass, a wedding ceremony, a classical or religious music concert, located more than 100 metres deep underground. It is so big it can accommodate 400 people in total! The Chapel of St. Kinga is, indeed, the crown jewel of the Wieliczka Salt Mine and the miners’ pride.

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Then we went to different other chambers with many life- size or larger statues and watched a film feature about the salt mine. There’s even a classical music played on one of the subterranean lakes- Chopin’s Etude in E Major Op. 10, No. 3, it was so touching and poignant. And inside the mine are numerous souvenir shops, restaurants and even a hotel! 

To get back to the outside world, an old- school mining elevator will bring you up all cramped together with other tourists inside, making you feel like you’re one of the miners getting back to their homes from a day of handwork, as the importance of salt during the medieval age was universal. It was an exciting ride, I have to admit!

Wieliczka Salt Mine is, no wonder, one of the symbols of Poland and is treasured of its great significance in human history!

Michałowice Chamber

Inside Wieliczka Salt Mine

Going down deep inside the earth!

Inside Wieliczka Salt Mine

Sculptures inside Wieliczka Salt Mine

CHAPTER 9: Auschwitz Birkenau, German Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp (1940- 1945)

DISCLAIMER: NO DISRESPECT INTENDED. I just document what I’ve witnessed visiting the site.

I have to be sensitive in writing about Auschwitz Birkenau, its history is of horror, still remembered as the biggest murder in modern world history. I, also, have to be honest, it’s the saddest one…

So after Krakow, the next stop is Oświęcim- the triangle tourist route in Southeastern Poland is Krakow- Auschwitz- Wieliczka, all three are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

I woke up early morning to catch the early bus going to Oświęcim from Krakow on a bus station near the Galeria Krakowska Mall about 8AM. I had my coffee and breakfast at the station cafe and the woman at the counter said that the bus going to Auschwitz is at the terminal just right outside the waiting area, in full view.

It was almost 8AM and there’s still no bus not personnel, so I had asked the lady at the cashier again to confirm the bus terminal and, again, she pointed at the same spot. I started to worry.

I went down on the lower ground level going to the mall as other bus terminals are located in that area to inquire and, to my surprise, its already busy! I’ve asked one of the bus drivers of later trips about the first trip and he said that the first bus is temporarily stationed under the overpass as it’s on a detour. I got confused and he pointed out the bus that’s at the far end side opposite the highway. It was about 8:15AM.

I literally ran to get to the bus and when I get there, it’s a bus going to a different place, not Oświęcim!!! I was told by the driver the bus heading for Oświęcim already left!- One of my very rare boo- boos in traveling!!! 😦

But good thing that there are taxis waiting near the bus station area and I hired one to go to Oświęcim. I paid him 200 zloty!- that’s more than twentyfold from 8zl that I paid for my bus ticket. I arrived to the Auschwitz museum still on time after the 21/2 travel time it took.

It was a very gray and hazy day that I went to Auschwitz. It was also drizzling a bit. Nothing could be more gloomy…

I paid for the 6 hour study, tour to have an in depth knowledge and understanding of the Auschwitz Birkenau sites. And it was a shocking and sad revelation…

Auschwitz, to my surprise, is touristy with visitors from many different countries but, as far as I know, I’m the only Filipino at that time.

I have seen, for the very first time, the infamous Auschwitz 1 main gate that says “Arbeit macht frei”– work makes you free…

The infamous Auschwitz 1 main gate that says “Arbeit macht frei”- work makes you free…

Inside Auschwitz 1, we went to several blocks and discovered how it started as a concentration camp then became death camp and why Auschwitz was chosen (strategic German power location of choice, middle of nowhere that it’s virtually impossible to escape and the coal business by the Germans). And we went to see Block 10, the most infamous block- the place where men, women and twins were used as experimental subjects for German doctors. Near at the entrance, to the right is Josef Mengele’s clinic. Block 11, on the other hand, was built and intended solely to punish prisoners through torture.  At the entrance, to the left, is the interrogation room by SS officers to Jews which usually involved extreme torture. It is also at Block 11 that the first attempt to kill people of Zyklon B were implemented. As we walk deeper inside Block 11 we’ve seen beds, shower areas, even some kind of dungeon labyrinth downstairs with numerous “standing cells” chambers. Between Blocks 10 and 11 is the “Death Wall”, a place where prisoners were executed through firing squad, also note that, these executions are visible through peepholes from the “standing torture rooms” underground Block 10. Just imagine the macabre sight, human torture and hate that the European Jews have suffered…

Prostitution and rape were also prevalent, to “entertain” SS officers on those times of loneliness and wanton abuse. Looting was widespread. There were many showrooms with belongings of the victims on display- from shoes, to bags, to eyeglasses, even a roomful of human hair!

I went passed public gallows, barbed wires with warning sign that says “Halt! Stoj!” and gas chambers. It started to rain as we visit from block to block. Everybody had their black umbrellas open, the mist was also unlikely to appear on that hour, everybody had shock and sadness painted on their faces, the occasional gasps- it was a very gloomy day…

I cannot put out off my head the words I’ve heard though my headphone from our tour guide: “…the Jews were lied to by the Nazi at the very end…”. It keeps on reverberating inside my head that I was already exhausted when we reached the Birkenau Camp…

Auschwitz 1

Tin cans of Zyklon B

These belonged to handicapped victims.

The “Death Wall”.

Gloomy Auschwitz 1

The public gallows at Auschwitz 1.

Auschwitz 1

At Birkenau Camp, which is much bigger, I’ve seen, for the first time, the infamous “Death Gate”, the “death train”, the “death quarters”… it’s all about death, death, death… 

It was as gloomy as ever and, suddenly I was haunted by what I’ve learned about Auschwitz during 1945… SS high- ranking officers, after the war, escaped to South America to hide through fake Italian passport/ Visa with fake identities by someone in the Vatican, or maybe, by the Vatican… Vatican’s gold deposits, majority of it, purportedly came from the Jews… 

According to historical investigations, 1.5 million people, among them a great number of Jews, were systematically starved, tortured and murdered in this camp, the symbol of humanity’s cruelty to its fellow human beings in the 20th century.

What happened in the world during that time? I know that goodness and evil is in us, humans are capable of both, but this evil proportion that made Auschwitz Birkenau and the Holocaust, as a whole, in the history is unimaginable. What’s even more unimaginable is the utter indifference or even cool acceptance by the non- Jews…

Visiting Auschwitz is unlike any my other travels- no fun here, far from that! But it was an important one. It is a place of our collective memory of that dark chapter in history and a sign of warning of the many threats and tragic consequences of extreme ideologies and denial of human dignity.

When I got back to The Netherlands, while I was seeing all these chimneys and blocks while I was walking with my partner visiting Weert, I broke down…

The “Death Gate” Birkenau Camp

Birkenau

At Birkenau

Krakow in Pixels

Historic centre of Krakow

Historic Centre of Krakow

A beautiful moment in Krakow.

Inside St. Mary’s Basilica, Krakow

Historic Centre of Krakow at night.

Historic Centre of Krakow at night.

Historic Centre of Krakow

Bryggen in Pixels

1979 UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bryggen

Bergen panorama.

Bryggen during sunset.

Cute troll greetings of warm welcome!

CHAPTER 7: BRYGGEN

… And we reached Bergen.

When we were making plans about our trip to Norway, one of our friends was so ecstatic that she said, we should never miss going to Bergen- one of the prettiest cities in Europe and was once Norway’s most important city during the medieval times.

After the fjords, this place is on the more familiar holiday route choices. We were surprised that it was not very touristy with the places we’ve been to so far in Norway, considering that it was summer. The weather was a blessing too, and we couldn’t be more thankful! Until we reached Bergen…

It was very touristy when we arrived but, you know what, it’s one of the rare places where tourists added charm to the place- this small medieval resort city.

Bergen is never overrated. It is, indeed, very pretty! Arriving in Bergen is grand, it’s like entering a royal domain- with villas and chalets tastefully situated on the hills and pine forested mountain sides. It gives you a feeling of romance and luxury. Walking is the best way to get to know the city which is famous for it’s historical Hanseatic wharf, the Bryggen.

I was very excited walking around discovering the city with numerous local and souvenir shops and seafood markets, it was C-R-A-Z-Y good!!! We did not waste any time, since our excitement overcame our fatigue from the long drive, and headed to see the famed wharf.

Bryggen is well preserved as a relic of an ancient wooden urban structure once common and widespread in Northern Europe and is a reminder of the town’s importance in trading. I’ve also read that over the centuries, several devastating fires, the most recent in 1955, have ravaged the traditional wooden houses. However, rebuilding has traditionally followed old patterns and methods, so leaving its main structure preserved, and the town retains its medieval appearance. Thus, making it as a part of the 1979 UNESCO World Heritage Site list!

The traditional three- level wooden houses, with roofs covered with shingles, are painted with crisp solid colours of white, red, yellow and burgundy with names of assorted souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes which presently occupying the nominated site. It was basically catered for tourism which plays a big part in funding for and strictly maintaining it’s preservation. 

Inside, all wooden and filled with remnants of times past, it was such a beautiful place to see larger- than- life wooden sculptures of mythological fish and trolls in the courtyard, as well as medieval furnitures and scaffoldings of the shops. I wonder how it was during the medieval age? It’s a site to behold!

The buildings were constructed along the narrow streets running parallel to the dock. And I’ve seen 2 of the largest and most luxurious yachts in the world!

We walked further to see more of the city and it seems like you can go around the entire city centre in less than a day. The souvenir shops were so tempting I bought my first Norwegian wool jacket! 

Sunset is so dramatic as Bryggen glows like gold, as the sun sets. It was awe inspiring!

Bergen is a very expensive city but once you get here, it’s really a special place…

Preikestolen/ Geirangerfjord, Norway

Preikestolen, Lysefjord, Norway

The Pulpit Rock

2005 UNESCO World Heritage Site: Geirangerfjord

Seven Sisters Waterfall, Geirangerfjord, NOrway

CHAPTER 6: THE PREIKESTOLEN AND THE GEIRANGERFJORD, NORWAY

(August 2013)

 

Our next stop after the Urnes Stave Church is the Preikestolen in Lysefjord and the 2005 UNESCO World Heritage Site: West Norwegian Fjords- Geirangerfjord, referred to as the most beautiful fjord in the world!

The two destinations are our engagement “honeymoon”!!! 🙂

From Ornes, we drove a total distance of approximately 1,100 kilometres. We have easily concluded that Norway is the world’s most photogenic country. 

Gadd, this country is so scenic! So clean and beautiful with countless falls, pine forests, snow capped mountains, countless grazing and people friendly sheeps that clank bells whenever they come near you- you will fall in love with Norway!!! And we passed the Lærdal Tunnel, the longest road tunnel in the world with a total length of 24.51 km! Beat that! As we look at Sygic, our navigator app, we found ourselves under the sea and inside the mountain! The design of the tunnel takes into consideration the mental strain on drivers. While the main tunnel has white lights, the caves have blue lighting with yellow lights at the fringes to give an impression of sunrise. The caves are meant to break the routine, providing a refreshing view and allowing drivers to take a short rest. The caverns are also used as turn around points and for break areas to help lift claustrophobia during a 20-minute drive through the tunnel. To keep drivers from being inattentive or falling asleep, each lane is supplied with a loud rumble strip toward the center. We passed through more than hundreds of road tunnels total while in Norway! Whew! Clap clap to Norway!!! 

Our first stop: The Preikestolen.

The Preikestolen or Pulpit Rock is a steep and massive cliff of about 1,982 ft above the Lysefjorden. Before reaching the cliff, you have to do a challenging steep 3.8 km hike up the cliff. No guides, just us hikers!!! Fun, fun, fun with a tinge of adrenaline rush!!! We have learned  that it was the Nepalese builders who developed the hike trail because, in the past, there were quite a number of deaths by hikers up the Preikestolen. It was that sheer and dangerous…

A trip to Preikestolen from the closest car park takes about 3–4 hours for a round-trip hike. The walk to Preikestolen is not particularly long but very steep in places. But you will always be rewarded by scenic view and the sweet sensation of fondling with nature!

Then we have learned that no death by accident was ever recorded yet in Preikestolen, except for a few suicide attempts in the area. There was no railing too!

When we got to the top, I suddenly concluded, together with my partner, that we will climb mountains… After all, its our rhetorical expression to remind ourselves to love each other and that there are two of us at the top of the mountain… Preikestolen is heaven!!! I even sat at the edge of the cliff!!! It was the  boldest thing I have ever attempted, my stomach still churns from thinking about it!

Next stop, the Geirangerfjord…

…Then we saw the Geirangerfjord for the very first time…

It’s the most grandiose natural site I’ve ever seen! From the mountains up above, we had to pass by the amazing 59 zigzag- turns Trollstigen mountain road- a serpentine road that provides you the breathtaking view of the glory of the Geirangerfjord! It is a popular tourist attraction, in itself, due to its steep incline of 10% (yes, 10 freaking %!!!) and eleven hairpin bends up a steep mountainside.

I was in AWE! Big time! Spell paradise! Norway, why sooo beautiful???!!! 🙂

Let me cite the famous quote that Magdalene Thoressen said about the area (she said it like I still feel “it’s in my face”!) : “This fjord is surrounded by the steepest and, one is almost tempted to say, the most preposterous mountains on the entire west coast. It is very narrow and has no habitable shore area, for the precipitous heights rise in sheer and rugged strata almost straight out of the water. Foaming waterfalls plunge into the fjord from jagged peaks. There are, however, a few mountain farms here, and of these one or two have such hazardous access, by paths that wind around steep precipices, and by bridges that are fixed to the mountain with iron bolts and rings, that they bear witness in a most striking way to the remarkable powers of invention which the challenges of nature have developed in man.”

The Geirangerfjord is also notable for its waterfalls! The two most notable waterfalls in the Geirangerfjord are the Seven Sisters and the Suitor (also calledThe Friar). Both falls face one another across the fjord, and the Suitor is said to be trying to woo the sisters opposite. The Bridal Veil is another waterfall in the fjord, so named because it falls delicately over one rocky edge, and when seen backlit by the sun it has the appearance of a thin veil over the rocks. We did private safari and I was even more amazed to learn that there are porpoises right below the falls! 

UNESCO was sooo right inscribing the Geirangerfjord, along with Nærøyfjord, as the West Norwegian Fjords in the World Heritage List in 2005.

Urnes Stave Church in the Mist

1979 UNESCO World Heritage Site

Urnes Stave Church

CHAPTER 5: AT THE URNES STAVE CHURCH, NORWAY

(August 16, 2013)

 

Fairytales do come true. 

I officially got engaged, to my lifetime partner, at the 1979 UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Urnes Stave Church in Norway.

From Amsterdam, we drove approximately 1,558 kms to reach this legendary Viking- built wooden church to have our exchange of vows. Reaching the church is no easy feat- we had to make several stops at least to spend the night- Hamburg, Aalborg, Kristiansand, Stavanger and Balestrand before reaching Ornes. We had to drive through endless narrow cliffside roads and, at least five times, we had to cross via cruise ships to reach the island in the heart of the famous Søgnefjord. We have made plans for this special place and we are aware that it’s remote, but not this remote! It was sheer adventure!

It was gently raining and we travelled far to see the church shrouded by cloud, standing in the natural setting of Søgnefjord. Nothing could be more perfect than that day we went to see it for the very first time and had our exchange of vows… The most special and the most beautiful place I’ve seen! 

The church was built around 1130 or shortly thereafter, and still stands in its original location; it is believed to be the oldest of its kind. It provides a link between Christian architecture and the architecture and art forms of the Viking Age with typical animal-ornamentation, the so-called “Urnes style” of animal-art. The church is situated on a promontory in the remarkable Søgnefjord. It gives you a fairyland feel. Surreal is the word!

It’s entirely made of wood and no nails have been used to built the church. The wood carvings and sculpted decor of exquisite quality on the outside includes strap- work panels and elements of Viking tradition- a unique artistic achievement. In the interior of the church, there is an extraordinary series of 12th century carved figurative capitals. The church also contains a wealth of liturgical objects of the medieval period. The church has been well preserved in its original form for a thousand of years!

And then our exchange of vows… I have initially prepared for my love declaration and even rehearsed it to deliver it perfectly. But on that day, I got so nervous, I delivered it differently(but better!). I was even more satisfied with that because it came from the heart. And so did he!

We wore a Suksuk Piña Barong on our engagement day! It was so cute wearing a traditional Filipino formal wear in Norway- land, lol!!! 

So there goes my tears of joy. It was the most beautiful day of my life! ♥