CHAPTER 13: Asik- Asik Waterfalls, Alamada, North Cotabato, Philippines

So this next article is probably about the most “exotic” place I’ve ever been, by far!

It’s newly discovered, totally undeveloped, unspoiled, very remote, to say the least.

I’ve only learned about this enchanting waterfalls located deep inside the heart of the island of Mindanao, in the Philippines, two days prior to my flight to Davao City. I challenged myself to go to a place not for the faint- of- heart and nature trip and, boy, I was totally awe- struck…!

Asik- Asik Falls

Asik- Asik Falls

After I arrived at Davao International Airport in the morning, about an hour and 45 minutes flight from Manila, I decided to spend a day before heading to North Cotabato, because I know I’ll be facing a battle getting to this waterfalls… Davao City is still consistently clean and well organised since my last trip here, years ago, but I have to say that I only stayed in a hotel and see little of Davao, nonetheless I met nice locals and made friends with some of the guests at the hotel that I stayed in. A couple asked me where I planned to go and was surprised that I traveled alone. I told them that I plan to go to Asik- Asik waterfalls and the lady whose from South Cotabato, traveling with her husband, told me she only heard of that place and she gave me warnings of traveling to North Cotabato for the first time…

The lady told me that since I am from Manila, there is a stigma that locals may find me a “braggart” like the other Manileños that traveled there before, which might get me into trouble. I said, I’ll take note of that. She also said that the road up the waterfalls is in horrendous condition that’s why it’s off the radar with tourists. She also asked me why I travel alone and, of all places, to travel alone going to North Cotabato for the first time? I said that’s why I decided to travel alone because there nothing more authentic travel experience than going to places that are not touristy yet gives this mysterious aura to discover it myself. She also said that it’s not the safest place to travel because of the armed conflicts in the area… Inside my head, nothing could stop me from visiting the place, I even got more intrigued and excited!

So I did more research about getting to this waterfalls from the few resources available online, to minimise hiccups, and had to make sure I get plenty of rest the night before my trip to Asik- Asik Wateralls.

I must admit I know nothing much about the waterfalls except that the picture of it seemed to be photoshopped- it’s that beautiful!

I woke up at 3 in the morning to prepare, since I will take the van going to Midsayap from Davao City, located at SM Davao at 5 in the morning. When I get to the van terminal, I thought I was alone, it was very dark and seemed to be still closed. But i got inside in no time and there were few passengers already waiting. So I bought some coffee to warm up the cold early morning and about 5:30 AM, I’m on my way for the 4 1/2 hour drive to Midsayap. I think I paid less than Php200 for the fare. The countryside is beautiful, some areas are very rural with Mt. Apo, the highest mountain in the Philippines, majestically appearing beyond the clouds.

I arrived at Midsayap around 10 in the morning and had taken my lunch in the van terminal, I was so hungry since I did not have my breakfast. I asked around where can I take a Habal- habal going to Alamada. A Habal- habal is a motorcycle with extended seat to accommodate more passengers in a row, so called because the sitting position of backseat riders simulate copulation from behind :-).

I made inquiries with a vendor and she told me I have to get to Libungan to take a Habal- Habal to get to Alamada which will take at least 2 hours. So I took a tricycle, about 30 minutes ride to Libungan and negotiated with Habal- Habal drivers to take me to Alamada. I was charged Php500.

It was an adventure! The mountain vista is breathtaking. Much of the lands beside the road is subject to agriculture but the mountains are untouched. The road was not the best, some parts are rough roads and some are dirt roads. And since the area is mountainous, the road looms like a roller coaster! I had to hold tight to my seat or to the driver to keep balance. Nonetheless, I was excited. The driver told me that the road is nothing compared to the road going from Alamada town proper to Upper Dado, that’s the real challenge that why he said, I need to get to another Habal- Habal of which they use dirt track motorcycles with chains wrapped around the wheels because his cannot make it to Upper Dado, the stopover before the trek down Asik- Asik waterfalls! Aha, I said, so it is that remote? he said yes, but it’s all worth it once you see the beauty of the waterfalls and it’s unbelievable curtain- like feature!

When I reached Alamada, around past noon, there was a fiesta of the municipality’s founding. The entire town was on a festive mood with banners and programs being held. I registered at the tourism office and I was invited for lunch! Thats was special in itself. Very gracious of them to invite me and had lunch with the driver at the municipal hall!

I was the only tourist that day!

And the time came that I took the second Habal- Habal from Alamada going to Upper Dado… The estimated travel time was about 1 1/2hours of very bad road condition. It was muddy and the stones and gravels they put were so sharp and too big to smoothen the ride. There where moments that we needed to stop to keep our balance! And I almost fell when the motor made a jerk when it bumped a big stone! My behind and my hands where already aching from the ride and I have to keep very close to the driver since the road, mostly, keeps going up the mountain.  Not to mention my shoes were already muddy and I worried about my DSLR camera from all these shaking and bumping! There were very few houses, I noticed, and where too far from each other you can hardly call it a neighborhood! But you know what, I was never been that happy, experiencing a ride like that! Call me crazy but, I am!!! 🙂

And I finally reached Upper Dado, Alamada, North Cotabato, Mindanao, Philippines around 3 in the afternoon! Whew! 🙂

Sitio Dulao, Upper Dado, Alamada, North Cotabato

Lone basketball ring at Upper Dado

My homestay at Upper Dado

Chapel, Sitio Dulao, Upper Dado, Alamada, North Cotabato

Did I mention that there’s no hotel nor dorm accommodations in Upper Dado?!

I’ve asked the locals in charge of the registration to let me in and stay for 3 days and I’ll pay for the food and accommodation. It was crazy good that they let me, and cleaned up a room in their house and temporarily move the children to their room, for the time being, since I am their unexpected guest.

Oh dear, I thought to myself, this is, by far, the most adventurous travel I made and I haven’t reached the waterfalls yet! I was kind of exhausted so I decided to go and see Asik- Asik waterfalls the following day. The family that “adopted” me were so kind and she cooked a whole chicken adobo as my meal for the next 3 days. It’s understandable because of the remoteness of the place. And the clouds were hanging below us.

No electricity, no proper water system, no wifi!- that I did not expect, good thing I had my power bank with me and my DSLR camera fully charged!

I ate my early dinner around 5pm since there was no electricity and it was getting dark. The food was very delicious with a good quality rice and I didn’t mind eating on an empty ice cream container at all! That was real traveling for me!

At nighttime, I chatted with the second eldest son of the family’s seven kids on a cold starry night with thousand of fireflies. It was surreal. He asked a lot of questions about Manila and the city life. He also offered to be my guide going to the falls. We retired early.

Upper Dado is a poor community but the nicest of people. It’s a 5th class village filled with greenery, with no road, it was very scenic. The following day I went with their son, my new friend, up to the mountains to show me around riding a “Karo”- it’s a wheelless wooden carriage being pulled by a buffalo mostly used for agriculture.

The soil up the mountain was red, a stark contrast to the verdant green of the mountain and nearby forests. It was serene and beautiful, it was therapeutic to clear up one’s head. We were blessed with a glorious day, just perfect for my photography ecstasy. The boy told me that amongst all tourists that had visited, I am the only one who joined up with him up the mountains and stayed for more than two days. I told him the intention really is to stay here and marvel, away from the bustling city life. I needed this, I said!

Carabao

Three goats!

Kanga

Alamada, North Cotabato, Philippines

And off we go to Asik- Asik waterfalls. It was a 45 minute trek on a lush rainforest. It is totally hidden from Upper Dado by the thick forest, you can only hear its might of falling water from afar. You also must get past a bridge made of bamboo to get to the falls. And the falls is so huge and beautiful you will pause on your tracks to be awed by this nature’s wonder!

I’ve  learned that the falls was only officially “discovered” a few years back, it was on April 2012, and became open for tourism on September of the same year. It was about 50 metres high and about 200 metres wide of graceful curtain- like waterfalls. Asik- Asik is an Ilonggo term meaning a sprinkle of water. Before it was discovered and opened to public it has been told that some people who might have already known this place long time ago, but due to accessibility problem no one interests to go further.

That day, I was the only tourist with my Cafgu guide and the boy, my new friend. I had the falls all for myself and we swam and ran naked! It was the word freedom made flesh kind of experience! It was my first time to run and swim naked like that and I could’t be more happy. 🙂

Interestingly, the water comes from a spring, there was no mighty cascade of river water falling but it’s coming out of a spring deep inside the vertical mountain wall filled with beautiful green vines and exotic flowers. The water was very clean and sweet to drink! Also, I noticed that the river flows round the C shaped waterfalls, from a different falls nearby, and not coming from it downwards. So the current will push you sideways and not forward!

Asik- Asik Falls

Asik- Asik Falls

On the way to Asik- Asik Falls

Much sorts of legend filled this waterfalls amongst the locals. They said that this place is an enchanted secret sanctuary of fairies. Ugh, it was very authentic to hear all of these stories, clearly showing harmony between culture and nature!

The waterfalls is also well maintained, the environs is free of waste, they have garbage bins made from sacks of rice and smoking is not allowed! I hope that the waterfalls will be maintained this way for ages to come, it’s too fragile and beautiful to be mired by tourism once the road will be paved and transport will be much easier. I was sure that once it becomes popular, it can be of international importance in tourism.

So I stayed for three days, three glorious, unforgettable days! Returning back to the Asik- Asik waterfalls as each day passes, and back, taking my breath away on each visit, on different times of the day- even seeing rainbow early in the morning!

On the question of safety, I never felt I was on danger, much less uncomfortable. So I guess that the armed conflict that the lady was telling me was only an isolated case from years back. The locals were the nicest I’ve met to say the least!

On the day of my return back to Davao City, guess what, it was the Upper Dado fiesta! I couldn’t be luckier! It was such a sweet goodbye that I bid the place and family. They let me stay for brunch to celebrate with them, and the chicken tinola was heaven!

I was only charged less than Php600, both food and accommodation. I gave them Php1000 and told her to just keep the change. The mother became emotional about my gesture. I promised them, I will definitely come back and tell to my friends about my amazing experience of traveling there! I also thanked them for their kindness. They said, I will always be welcomed! I was very positive my heart went up my throat that day…

I came back to Manila not just as a homecoming traveler but also as a storyteller!

To the people of Alamada, a million of thanks for your kindness! You made my travel even more unforgettable!

Children of Upper Dado

CHAPTER 12: Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout

So amongst all the European countries, it is in The Netherlands am closest with. A nation admirable for their liberal outlook and tolerance, the world’s tallest people, small but influential kingdom with rich history during colonial and modern times and their amazing mastery of hydraulics- resulting from, since The Netherlands is probably the geographically flattest country in the world and with a significant area below sea level.

Of the mastery of hydraulics, they really are! It is best represented by the Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout, which is, by itself, is an enduring symbol of the Kingdom of The Netherlands.

It was on a beautiful spring morning that we went- with my partner, to see this man- made wonder in the small village of Kinderdijk. Coming from Amsterdam, it’ll take you about a little more than an hour by car to reach the site (The Netherlands, by the way, has one of the best highway systems in the world!).

Some people, even locals, would think it’s kind of a cornball visiting the windmills. Maybe because it’s too popular and is overexposed in the social media, television and tourist centres whenever The Netherlands is covered or mentioned. But seeing them, getting inside the windmills and knowing of it’s history is never overrated, albeit, for me, it’s even underrated in comparison with other popular sites in Europe, or even worldwide.

As we park the car and getting my camera and extra lens ready, I noticed that it’s not touristy at all. It was even silent! With the weather this divine and with few tourists, this is, indeed, my lucky day!

As we walk towards the old windmills, the vibe it gave me was that of a very traditional village, authentic and relaxing. The walk itself is therapeutic and the windmills of about 19 still standing and all in good operating condition are surreal, interrupting the straight line of the horizon and complimenting the famous Dutch high clouds that inspired artists and painters alike!

Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout

Water Reflection of One of the Kinderdijk Windmills

Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout

So what does it do? The Kinderdijk- Elshout, apart from the fact that it’s the best preserved area in The Netherlands to see the windmills and the most concentrated, is the best place to understand Dutch people’s ingenuity in draining and protecting areas by the development and application of hydraulic technology. There was a time when 10,000 old windmills dotted the Dutch landscape. Widely known for being unique and picturesque, the windmills were also essential- the windmills pump water from the polders- a piece of low- lying land reclaimed from the sea or a river and protected by dikes. By keeping polders dry, they made agriculture possible. When the wind moves the blade, the blade moves the turbine inside the windmill. The turbines pump water from the channel to the higher drainage canal. This procedure is repeated until the water in the canal reaches a certain level and then releasing water to the river or sea thereby framing up the land for agriculture.

When we got inside to some of the windmills, they also served as houses of the local people. Some where preserved as a museum for exposition while others are still occupied by the “keepers” of the windmills. I was told that the old windmills, in order to operate, requires deep knowledge of sailing techniques in order to set the blades correctly and by reading where the wind is blowing. Once one of the leading maritime trading powers in the world, the Dutch people have mastered this kind of knowledge for centuries. It is evidenced by the date inscriptions on the windmills dating back from the 16th- 17th century.

Now, the majority of the windmills are the modern mechanical steamed power pumps rather than the traditional windmills. They looked very forbidding and because the modern windmills stand very high, at some historical and cultural places, they seemed to be causing horizon pollution… But some of the old windmills, specially the Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout, continue to operate and will always be symbol of this unique and beautiful country.

On this 1997 UNESCO World Heritage Site, I made one of my best photographic works! This place is special!

The Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout represents a masterpiece of human creative genius of the Dutch people. I couldn’t agree more!

Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout

Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout

Mill Network at Kinderdijk- Elshout

WHAT’S YOUR TRAVEL SONG?

I have many!

Expect, several interludes here after few chapters of my journey by far because, “travel songs” can be apt with different moods and different sensations that a traveler experience. But there’s one common denominator: that rapturous feeling of awe, of vulnerability that you unknowingly manifest then consciously refused but, like a drug, you submit and feel the melody, as it causes you goosebumps and even a tear or two or, just let it go and flow to almost like a spiritual moment of sort.

Music and travel, god, it makes a man!

When I travel alone, I am crazy and emotional and wild and then I realised, no, I’m becoming sane, full of glee, celebrating life! A moment to discover a place far from my usual life of work related stress, of routine and occasional boredom because the line seems to be too linear and predictable.

Oftentimes, I had my song choices on my phone played because there are songs that are far too obvious- those songs that I love. But there are songs I hear by accident, those songs I forgot in my head that should have been parts of my playlist while traveling and, since, when traveling, you won’t always have wifi connection (which can be a luxury, by the way), you feel that longing and pain to hear the song again, and again, creating your own world in a foreign place you found yourself in and having your moment to life!

Alamada, North Cotabato, Philippines

I’m a backpacker, although I can be guilty of not traveling “very light”, I find it so raw to sit on floors of the airports waiting to board, sitting down on side streets collecting yourself, on a secluded beach relaxing and getting a tan, lying down on your bed on dorms with your fellow backpackers and, my favourite moment to listen- on a bus, on a long and winding journey overland to some exotic place or places which may or may not be a part of your “rough draft” itinerary and then just tapping your feet as you listen and hum and even sing while listening to songs from your earphones.

I’m so big with these kind of moments!

I, sometimes, think faster than I write which causes me be somewhat long- winded but like I said, with my travel songs, I can name a few for me but, since I know myself, I can drop some titles in the future, those songs that make me remember that “sensation” from my previous travels, which were precious to me. Those songs that caused me to think: Ah, this world is so big that it’s a pity not to be wandered and discovered, that, we may not see all the world’s places in life but some things, some places, some people who, you will meet along the way, will change your life and change your outlook in life for the better.

Here are some of my travel songs:

1. So Long, Lonesome- Explosions in the Sky
2. I Will Come To You- Hanson
3. I Lived- One Republic
4. Firework- Katy Perry

So, tell me yours! NO judgement here. 🙂

CHAPTER 11: Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras

Known as the “stairway to heaven” and considered as the 8th wonder of the world, the Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras is the most scenic cultural world heritage site I’ve ever seen in Asia.

The weather was cool, it was the month of December. I went to the Ohayami Bus station in Sampaloc, Manila en route to Ifugao on a night bus. There were more foreigners than locals, I noticed. They were struggling to position their legs comfortably because the seats were “Asian size”- there’s not enough leg room but it seemed they care less. From Manila, it will take you probably at least 9 hrs by land, with some sections of some treacherous zigzag roads that offer amazing mountain vistas of the province of Ifugao.

I arrived at the Banaue Tourism Office around 5:30 in the morning for registration- which is the first thing you need to do, and just outside, I met my guide whom I previously contacted because I intended to visit all five UNESCO sites that make the Rice Terraces of Philippine Cordilleras, spread on different municipalities within the province.

The great Ifugao people!

The five sites are the Nagacadan Rice Terraces, Mayoyao Rice Terraces, Hungduan Rice Terraces, Bangaan Rice Terraces and the crown jewel of the Rice Terraces of Philippine Cordilleras, the Batad Rice Terraces. These sites have about 2,000 years of rich history, of living cultural landscape devoted to the production of one of the world’s most important staple crops, rice. Although not uncommon in Asia, the Ifugao rice terraces is one of the most ancient, with the highest altitude (between 700m to 1,500m above sea level) and steepest slopes also, considered to be one of the most extensive having maintained remarkable harmony between mankind and a natural environment of great aesthetic appeal.

It also appears in one of the Philippine peso bills and is one of the most authentic because the rice terraces are the only monuments in the Philippines that show no evidence of having been influenced by colonial cultures. I have read somewhere that Ifugaos have resisted colonialism and because of it’s remote location, Spanish influence is not as prevalent as elsewhere. The Ifugaos were also able to preserve traditional techniques and forms, dating back two millennia, as well as demonstrating sustainable farming systems in mountainous terrain based on careful use of natural resources.

I first visited the Hungduan Rice Terraces which is near Banaue. It is famous for its sprawling spiderweb- like rice terraces design. The way to Hungduan is via road system in poor condition going uphill for about 45 minutes to one hour. It was muddy from the previous day’s rainfall and, since we used a motorcycle, I was muddy as well but I didn’t mind at all, the way going to Hungduan was very scenic to say the least. Then we did hiking of about an hour going around and in the rice terraces. I took a bath on a nearby spring as well. We also visited the local village and just wander around, amazed by the beauty and sheer size of the site. It took me the whole day visiting Hungduan and going back to Banaue.

Hungduan Rice Terraces

Hungduan Rice Terraces

Hungduan Rice Terraces

Hungduan Rice Terraces

I checked in at People’s Lodge, it’s a backpacker’s inn of reasonable price with a nice view of the Banaue Rice Terraces and the typical Ifugao village below. It was the high season so I was not surprised that it was full of other backpackers- even with other lodges and hotels. I went straight to my room to charge my phone and I noticed that there’s no sockets in the room, even at the lobby… So I made inquiries with the receptionist and she said that it’s the same thing even with other lodges. I was surprised but I said “ok” since I got no choice and, as I really need to charge my 2 phones since both were almost empty, I was forced to stay pile on a long queue of travellers waiting for their turn to charge their phones, iPads and cameras on the sockets only available at the reception table! It was such a hassle!

Good thing that even if I waited long, I didn’t feel like I’ve wasted time to see the rice terraces on my first day because it was already at dusk that I manage to get back from Hungduan. I had my dinner and the food was OK. Clearly, the menu is catered for the tourists. I had my shower thereafter and called it a day.

It was the holiday season so the Mesa de Gallo or the early morning mass is being held daily for nine consecutive mornings. The Banaue town proper is only very small, and the christmas song being played loudly at the chapel to waken up the villagers and churchgoers can be heard by the entire world! Jackson 5’s “Santa Claus is Coming to Town”, mind you, young Michael Jackson’s high pitched voice was so distinct and powerful, to say the least- it was like a boom box situated right next to you, reverberating on the halls of the lodge at 5 in the morning! It was not a good start for me to be waken up like that but, it definitely was a blessing in disguise, because all other travellers in the inn were still sleeping soundly (I don’t know how they can manage that from the loud music being played!) and so I am the ONLY one using the sockets to charge my two phones and camera all the same time! I am the only one out in the lobby having my coffee and starting my day while everyone is asleep, save for the inn personnels who were already preparing food for breakfast. It was such a luxury, trust me…

And as predictable as they are, all other travellers woken up, almost simultaneously, at 7am while I am already readying to go to my next rice terraces destination! Haha!

And that has been my routine for the next seven days! Thanks to the loud music- it was such a blessing! 🙂

Next stop is the Bangaan Rice Terraces.  Located nearby the Banaue town proper, it’s the smallest of the 5 UNESCO sites but it’s one of the prettiest! A small Ifugao village with a chapel is located in the middle of the rice terraces that looked like a five star resort from afar amidst the greeneries surrounding the village that seem like a coliseum in its style tilling the mountainous terrain. It was very pretty it was almost therapeutic to just stare at.

Living on the edge, literally!

Bangaan Rice Terraces

Bangaan Rice Terraces

Bangaan Rice Terraces

It was in Batad that I stayed for three days and two nights. The Batad Rice Terraces is considered to be the most beautiful rice terraces in the world. It is located in Banaue, on a different barangay, but it’s not easy to get there. From the town proper, me and my guide drove via his motor to get to Saddle Point, through a very steep and muddy road for about one hour. The Saddle Point is the location where we need to leave the motor and start hiking. It was situated so high that the clouds are beneath us covering the ravine down below.

The Batad Rice Terraces is located 1,500m above sea level. From the Saddle Point we rested a bit and so I had given time to send my partner a text message about my experience so far and that I was so excited to do some hiking to get to Batad and we are so high up the mountains that the clouds were hanging below us. Then I sent him another text message saying “we’re now going down hiking to get to Batad but the visibility is not the clearest because of the cloud”…

The hiking lasted about two hours. It was not an easy climb. It’s comparable with my hiking experience at the Preikestolen. There were parts of the trail that are steep and seemed like an endless zigzag descent following the mountain slopes and we were surrounded by lush rainforest. I was told it’s remote but I did not expect it was THAT REMOTE…! There was no phone signal!!!

And I saw, for the first time, the famed Batad Rice Terraces… It was literally and figuratively breathtaking! The entrance to the site, wherein you can also find the tourist kiosk where you need to register, will give you the best viewpoint of the famous amphitheatre rice terraces with some jagged mountain backdrop. I have never seen anything like it. It was unbelievably beautiful!

We checked in at Batad Pension and I was welcomed by the owner’s son with warmth and offered me a “Baya”- a native Ifugao rice wine, which I took and, I have to admit, it tasted great! Batad seemed to be colder than in Banaue town proper because of it’s altitude with low-lying clouds and beautiful sunset.

We wasted no time and, after lunch, we went hiking inside the maze-like rice terraces to get closer to Ifugao villages and from this point, the rice terraces looked different from the entrance view point. It almost looked circular down below. It was so huge the entire mountain was carved that the Ifugao forefathers made it a single rice field!

When I saw photos of the Batad Rice Terraces before it seemed like I can almost descend and ascend to each and every step- like in a stair but, lo and behold, each “step” is about 12 to 15 feet in height (some are even higher on some uneven parts of the mountain slopes)- it has a total height of approximately 1,500 metres! Imagine the sheer size…If you fall, you’ll be covered in mud you can hardly be distinguished from afar!

We also went and see the 70 feet waterfall nearby, at the back of the rice terraces, the Tappiyah Falls. It took us a total of one hour of another challenging hike in the middle of nowhere to get to the falls and, again, an amazing site with powerful water drop and cool river run with a nearly vertical solid mountain wall as back drop!

I have found out that if you put your phone by the balcony railing of the pension, there is a weak phone signal being found. That’s when I have sent text messages to my partner, family and friends not to worry about me, and that I was having a day to life and apologised for not being able to reach me or give advise prior to since I didn’t know about it, specially my partner as he was much worried if something unfortunate has already happened.

Batad Rice Terraces was unforgettable! I even wore an Ifugao warrior garb on a photo shoot with the Batad Rice Terraces as the background, appreciating the indigenous culture. It’s the best place I’ve seen in the Philippines, hands down!

Batad Rice Terraces

Batad Rice Terraces

Batad Rice Terraces

On my way to Tappiyah Falls

Tappiyah Falls

Ifugao warrior garb!

Mayoyao Rice Terraces is, by far, the farthest from Banaue town proper. It’s only about 50 kilometres in distance but it took us 4.5 hours on the road, one way. The road condition was the worst I’ve seen in Ifugao and the mud was about 5 inches thick! We had to even walk on an ankle- high mud to give way to trucks and bulldozers since the road was under construction at the time I was there.

Moyoyao is nothing short of amazing, too! The road to Mayoyao goes all the way inside the rice terraces- it was so wide that there are few different villages situated within the UNESCO site. It’s not as steep as Batad but it has more traditional Ifugao huts peppered around the rice terraces. And the terraces were wider that looked like scales at a viewpoint.

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Mayoyao Rice Terraces

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to visit the Nagacadan Rice Terraces in Kiangan. It was even farther on a much different direction. My one week of travel was not enough, and so, therefore, I shall return!

Modernization proved to be an enemy of this UNESCO World Heritage Site that, at one time, it was put on the “In Danger List”. Although far from being spoiled by modern infrastructures because of its remote location and steep mountains surrounding the area, I was told that there are far fewer and fewer young Ifugaos tilling the land and maintaining the rice terraces because some of them would rather go and work in the corporate world in the capital after graduating from college. Construction of the terraces demands great care and precision and of its complex drainage system.

When I was there, it was on its full glory, so I hope the best for the future of the Rice Terraces of Philippine Cordilleras. It is a great representation of my people and country for the world to see.

Quote of the Day

“Don’t grow up too quickly, lest you forget how much you love the beach.”

— Michelle Held

Beach therapy…

CHAPTER 10: Wieliczka Salt Mine

Poland proved to be special thus far, and visiting Wieliczka Salt Mine made it so unforgettable that the Southeast Poland tourist triangle route is one of the most popular in the world!

I never had any fancy thoughts about mines, I’ve never entered one before, so my judgement was fruitless and had no basis, except that I know it’s an important product of human source of livelihood and toil. I did a little research about this mine that, it’s part of the first batch of UNESCO World heritage Sites inscribed in 1978; that it’s one of the oldest salt mines in the world, built in the 13th century, which recently ceased in operation; of labyrinthine and was extensively explored that it reached 327 metres deep, spread over 9 levels, it has 300 kilometres of galleries, connecting more than 2,000 excavation chambers. Now that’s something! Makes me think of human size termite colony! 

But still, I wasn’t prepared with what I’ve seen inside the mine…

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

From Krakow, reaching Wieliczka Salt Mine takes less than half of the travel time reaching Auschwitz but on a totally different direction, making it shaped like an acute triangle between the three UNESCOs, i.e., Krakow- Auschwitz- Wieliczka Salt Mine.

I hired a taxi because it was raining early in the morning and I reached the site before 8AM while it’s still closed. I waited outside for about 30 minutes, smoking on the side street and setting my camera for lowlight photography because I know I’ll face challenges taking photos without flash inside the mine.

At the museum’s opening hours, I headed for the cashier to pay for my ticket for an English tour and there were many tourist buses already emptied with hoards of tourists from all over the world. I was kind of loss because I see no solo traveler like myself and I made inquiries where will I show myself up on my scheduled tour because it was overwhelmingly overcrowded.

While waiting, I had my breakfast at the cafeteria of sandwich and coffee and, in no time, our tour guide was looking for all the tourists scheduled under her wing.

The mine’s main building exterior looks nothing special. It’s like all other main buildings of mines I’ve seen- the Walloon coal mine of Bois- du- Luc was even more impressive from the outside world, I concluded.

So we had our radios and headphones ready and the tour guide assisted us where we should make the first entry to get inside the mine. I was less than ecstatic that time blaming it from the many noisy children and tourists crowding the museum’s lobby.

Main building, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Then the tour guide opened the first door and she said “we will now descend to get to the first level and walk down 380 steps of spiral wooden stairs…!” Reaching more than 64 metres underground with more than 50 turns on the spiral wooden stairs will make you dizzy and an impression of adventure of going down the unknown, reaching down the navel of the earth! We were so impressed instantly. 

The historic Wieliczka Salt Mine presented us it’s extraordinary secrets and work of genius! Wonderful sculptures made from rock salt and crystals with stories and exposition of how the miner’s work during the medieval times. Mind you, they even used horses inside the mine to help transport salt deposits! There were many underground lakes and chambers that enchant visitors with their unique beauty. 

We went deeper and deeper into the earth reaching about 135 metres underground, about 800 steps of wonder! It’s like the Disneyland of mines! True enough, it feels like an underground metropolis made of salt- a human sized termite colony of sort! It was quite cool inside the mine, about 14 C. The air , however, was therapeutic specially for people suffering from respiratory ailments. 

We also have tried licking the solid rock salt wall of the mine chambers and even drank flowing water from pipes inside the mine! The rock salt is naturally gray in various shades, resembling unpolished granite rather than the white or crystalline look that many visitors may expect. It was such fun and an amazing thing to experience! 🙂

The mine was very beautiful and even picturesque! The most impressive being the Chapel of St. Kinga. It was built from pure rock salt and crystals as Wieliczka salt miners of the olden days have mastered the art of rock salt sculpture. It is such a magnum opus with many salt crystal chandeliers that illuminate the intricately carved floor, with amazing bas relief and altars as proof of their extraordinary artistry. Its splendours make it the dreamland location for a Holy Mass, a wedding ceremony, a classical or religious music concert, located more than 100 metres deep underground. It is so big it can accommodate 400 people in total! The Chapel of St. Kinga is, indeed, the crown jewel of the Wieliczka Salt Mine and the miners’ pride.

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Chapel of St. Kinga, Wieliczka Salt Mine

Then we went to different other chambers with many life- size or larger statues and watched a film feature about the salt mine. There’s even a classical music played on one of the subterranean lakes- Chopin’s Etude in E Major Op. 10, No. 3, it was so touching and poignant. And inside the mine are numerous souvenir shops, restaurants and even a hotel! 

To get back to the outside world, an old- school mining elevator will bring you up all cramped together with other tourists inside, making you feel like you’re one of the miners getting back to their homes from a day of handwork, as the importance of salt during the medieval age was universal. It was an exciting ride, I have to admit!

Wieliczka Salt Mine is, no wonder, one of the symbols of Poland and is treasured of its great significance in human history!

Michałowice Chamber

Inside Wieliczka Salt Mine

Going down deep inside the earth!

Inside Wieliczka Salt Mine

Sculptures inside Wieliczka Salt Mine

CHAPTER 9: Auschwitz Birkenau, German Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp (1940- 1945)

DISCLAIMER: NO DISRESPECT INTENDED. I just document what I’ve witnessed visiting the site.

I have to be sensitive in writing about Auschwitz Birkenau, its history is of horror, still remembered as the biggest murder in modern world history. I, also, have to be honest, it’s the saddest one…

So after Krakow, the next stop is Oświęcim- the triangle tourist route in Southeastern Poland is Krakow- Auschwitz- Wieliczka, all three are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

I woke up early morning to catch the early bus going to Oświęcim from Krakow on a bus station near the Galeria Krakowska Mall about 8AM. I had my coffee and breakfast at the station cafe and the woman at the counter said that the bus going to Auschwitz is at the terminal just right outside the waiting area, in full view.

It was almost 8AM and there’s still no bus not personnel, so I had asked the lady at the cashier again to confirm the bus terminal and, again, she pointed at the same spot. I started to worry.

I went down on the lower ground level going to the mall as other bus terminals are located in that area to inquire and, to my surprise, its already busy! I’ve asked one of the bus drivers of later trips about the first trip and he said that the first bus is temporarily stationed under the overpass as it’s on a detour. I got confused and he pointed out the bus that’s at the far end side opposite the highway. It was about 8:15AM.

I literally ran to get to the bus and when I get there, it’s a bus going to a different place, not Oświęcim!!! I was told by the driver the bus heading for Oświęcim already left!- One of my very rare boo- boos in traveling!!! 😦

But good thing that there are taxis waiting near the bus station area and I hired one to go to Oświęcim. I paid him 200 zloty!- that’s more than twentyfold from 8zl that I paid for my bus ticket. I arrived to the Auschwitz museum still on time after the 21/2 travel time it took.

It was a very gray and hazy day that I went to Auschwitz. It was also drizzling a bit. Nothing could be more gloomy…

I paid for the 6 hour study, tour to have an in depth knowledge and understanding of the Auschwitz Birkenau sites. And it was a shocking and sad revelation…

Auschwitz, to my surprise, is touristy with visitors from many different countries but, as far as I know, I’m the only Filipino at that time.

I have seen, for the very first time, the infamous Auschwitz 1 main gate that says “Arbeit macht frei”– work makes you free…

The infamous Auschwitz 1 main gate that says “Arbeit macht frei”- work makes you free…

Inside Auschwitz 1, we went to several blocks and discovered how it started as a concentration camp then became death camp and why Auschwitz was chosen (strategic German power location of choice, middle of nowhere that it’s virtually impossible to escape and the coal business by the Germans). And we went to see Block 10, the most infamous block- the place where men, women and twins were used as experimental subjects for German doctors. Near at the entrance, to the right is Josef Mengele’s clinic. Block 11, on the other hand, was built and intended solely to punish prisoners through torture.  At the entrance, to the left, is the interrogation room by SS officers to Jews which usually involved extreme torture. It is also at Block 11 that the first attempt to kill people of Zyklon B were implemented. As we walk deeper inside Block 11 we’ve seen beds, shower areas, even some kind of dungeon labyrinth downstairs with numerous “standing cells” chambers. Between Blocks 10 and 11 is the “Death Wall”, a place where prisoners were executed through firing squad, also note that, these executions are visible through peepholes from the “standing torture rooms” underground Block 10. Just imagine the macabre sight, human torture and hate that the European Jews have suffered…

Prostitution and rape were also prevalent, to “entertain” SS officers on those times of loneliness and wanton abuse. Looting was widespread. There were many showrooms with belongings of the victims on display- from shoes, to bags, to eyeglasses, even a roomful of human hair!

I went passed public gallows, barbed wires with warning sign that says “Halt! Stoj!” and gas chambers. It started to rain as we visit from block to block. Everybody had their black umbrellas open, the mist was also unlikely to appear on that hour, everybody had shock and sadness painted on their faces, the occasional gasps- it was a very gloomy day…

I cannot put out off my head the words I’ve heard though my headphone from our tour guide: “…the Jews were lied to by the Nazi at the very end…”. It keeps on reverberating inside my head that I was already exhausted when we reached the Birkenau Camp…

Auschwitz 1

Tin cans of Zyklon B

These belonged to handicapped victims.

The “Death Wall”.

Gloomy Auschwitz 1

The public gallows at Auschwitz 1.

Auschwitz 1

At Birkenau Camp, which is much bigger, I’ve seen, for the first time, the infamous “Death Gate”, the “death train”, the “death quarters”… it’s all about death, death, death… 

It was as gloomy as ever and, suddenly I was haunted by what I’ve learned about Auschwitz during 1945… SS high- ranking officers, after the war, escaped to South America to hide through fake Italian passport/ Visa with fake identities by someone in the Vatican, or maybe, by the Vatican… Vatican’s gold deposits, majority of it, purportedly came from the Jews… 

According to historical investigations, 1.5 million people, among them a great number of Jews, were systematically starved, tortured and murdered in this camp, the symbol of humanity’s cruelty to its fellow human beings in the 20th century.

What happened in the world during that time? I know that goodness and evil is in us, humans are capable of both, but this evil proportion that made Auschwitz Birkenau and the Holocaust, as a whole, in the history is unimaginable. What’s even more unimaginable is the utter indifference or even cool acceptance by the non- Jews…

Visiting Auschwitz is unlike any my other travels- no fun here, far from that! But it was an important one. It is a place of our collective memory of that dark chapter in history and a sign of warning of the many threats and tragic consequences of extreme ideologies and denial of human dignity.

When I got back to The Netherlands, while I was seeing all these chimneys and blocks while I was walking with my partner visiting Weert, I broke down…

The “Death Gate” Birkenau Camp

Birkenau

At Birkenau

Krakow in Pixels

Historic centre of Krakow

Historic Centre of Krakow

A beautiful moment in Krakow.

Inside St. Mary’s Basilica, Krakow

Historic Centre of Krakow at night.

Historic Centre of Krakow at night.

Historic Centre of Krakow

CHAPTER 8: KRAKOW

 

I decided to go on a solo trip, a chance I had made up on my mind but having a tough time to decide which place and what to do and see…

I have a penchant for visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites, so I chose Krakow…

You know, it just made me curious why the historic centre of Krakow, along with Quito in Ecuador, made it as the first two cultural world heritage sites inscribed in 1978… Is it the integrity of the site? Political consideration? Rich history? Beauty? I decided to see it for myself and, besides, Europe’s oldest existing bookstore was first opened there, so I’m extra excited to see Krakow and go on a solo trip! 🙂

The only direct flight from Amsterdam to Krakow which takes about 2 1/2 hours was with Eurolot, a propeller plane- adventure for me!!!

Krakow is so green from up the sky and I cannot contain my excitement. I’ve read quite a lot about Poland’s modern history during World War 2 and Krakow has been spared from the war, unlike Warsaw. From Schiphol to Pope John II International Airport I made it to Krakow on a glorious spring day, late afternoon.

You know, this is what I really love about solo traveling- you are on a foreign land, knows no one, doesn’t speak the language and, a big opportunity awaits to get to know the place- a mixture of both nervousness and excitement. Therefore, you rely on yourself and see the place and appreciate it in a way that your judgement is your own and not influenced by others.

Of course, solo traveling will not be complete without minor, or sometimes, unfortunately, major hiccups… I booked a hotel prior to my coming and, according to the map, it’s near the airport and about 5 kilometres from the city centre to save a little money as I always travel on a budget.  Guess what? The cab driver doesn’t know the place and became kind of irritable! Even if I’ve shown him the name of the hotel and address, it proved to be futile. We were driving and turning from all directions for an hour until I reached the hotel as we asked a few locals where can it be found (some locals don’t know the hotel I’m booked with!). Indeed, it’s located on a remote hill and so I decided to look for a hotel in the centre the day after.

I didn’t waste much time and decided to call for a taxi to bring me to the city centre to have my late lunch and to take photos. And, lo and behold, it’s by far, the biggest historic centre I’ve seen in Europe!!! 

Krakow is such a gem! It’s like I’m on a time- warp, filled with medieval grandeur of the times past! The main square itself is so big but, you wouldn’t mind walking, it is that pretty! It has one of the oldest “shopping malls”- the Cloth Hall; the town hall tower dominates the city skyline; the St. Mary’s Basilica is a beauty to behold with it’s famous wooden altar and superlative Gothic interior, and, just right outside, is a free walking tour; the defensive city wall with many painters showcasing their work and is ready for sale; numerous shops and restaurants with numerous street performers pepper the Old Town. Many of the colourful medieval buildings have peeling paints which makes me think of La Habana. Outside of the square, the Wawel Hill is the best testimony of the richness of this merchant city during the 13th century with it’s gothic cathedral and the Wawel Castle best viewed from the Vistula river. Not to mention the Kazimierz with it’s rich Jewish heritage and, trust me, once you’re in Plac Nowy in Kazimierz, just get lost!!! 

And I went to visit and buy a book at Matras Bookshop- Krakow boasts one of the oldest bookstores in Europe that is still in operation opened in 1610! I’m a bookworm, so seeing and visiting this place is such a special luxury for me! It is a fairly small bookstore located in the main square and I had my moment of great delight! After all, Krakow is known as “City of Literature”, given that title by UNESCO. Why? Apart from it’s centuries- old literary heritage, it has a long tradition of book market and exposition, of education, a city of poetry, active literary institutions and a city of Nobel Prize winners- at least four: Henryk Sienkiewicz (1905), Władysław Stanisław Reymont (1924), Czesław Miłosz (1980) and Wisława Szymborska (1996)!!!

Krakow is all about that and more!!! I’m definitely going back and, hopefully, I can attend to some literary workshops, visit Podgorze, visit the Fabryka Schindlera, since I only saw it from the outside as I was running out of time, and get inside the Jagiellonian University where Pope John Paul II was an alumnus, among others.

Kocham Cię Kraków!!! ❤

Bryggen in Pixels

1979 UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bryggen

Bergen panorama.

Bryggen during sunset.

Cute troll greetings of warm welcome!